The boat ride from Rio Dulce to Livingston lasted 2.5 hours since the boat driver kept stopping for tour-guide duty and to pick up passengers. Along the way, we saw an island of birds, hot springs, a mayan women’s handicraft collaborative, and a special lagoon full of floating white lilies. In the water lilly field, I was surprised when a young girl in a canoe intentionally bumped her boat into ours. Then I realized she had filled her boat with trinkets and shells to sell to passerbys. Clever. And then, finally, we arrived in Livingston. This town is very different from any other in Guatemala as the cultural majority here are the Garifuna people, originally from Africa. Livingston possesses a strong community feel, evident right away. Jamaincan, Bob Marely influence, dance drum and rhythm sounds in the street. Good cooking and seafood. Brightly colored homes. Many small children running about. It can’t be that dangerous with such a family resident importance. That evening, the school seemed to be the life of the island community and many locals gathered around to watch an outdoor talent/music show of sorts.
I stayed in Hotel Tropical on the main street because it was only $7/night for my own room and the place was quiet with a hammock-strewn courtyard. That afternoon I walked along the beech for 3 hours and soaked up the sun and swam in bathtub temperature water. On the way to the beach, I stumbled upon a cool establishment. A young Mother from Maryland with her Garifuna husband had started an off-the-beaten-path restaurant/cooking school/guide agency/jewelry store/volunteer-opportunities place called Rasta Mesa two years ago. If you go or return to Livingston, I would recommend stopping in:
www.site.rastamesa.com They called me in to their porch and, hungrily, I went. I sat down to the local dish – topado – a fish stew in coconut milk with plantains and potatoes. I talked with the couple for a while, learning that they met in Belize and started this establishment in the husband’s hometown to give something back to the community. They told me Livingston is quite safe and they love it here.
That evening, I splurged a little for dinner at Casa Rosada, a beautiful restaurant/hotel right on the water. For $11, I had a 3 course meal. Salad and coconut bread first. Then a heaping plate of vegetables, rice and 8 giant shrimp. I cound not eat the rice and had to take it home so I had room for the plate of fruit and the ginger/coconut bar following as desert.
I could have stayed here longer, but two days turned out to be sufficient time to get the feel of the place and sample tasty local food. I returned by a 2.5 hour boat ride to Rio Dulce, where I caught the next bus to Flores.
